Showing posts with label skirt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label skirt. Show all posts

Friday, January 31, 2014

fabu-less friday: goodwill maxi turned ruche midi

I love Modcloth, Ruche, and Shabby Apple. I do not love the prices. Ruche is more affordable, but I have issues with spending money on clothes. I hate spending more than $20 on pretty much anything. However, I've been obsessing over plaid midi skirts for months, and I've been trying to convince myself to buy one.

"Ayrshire Plaid Midi Skirt" at ShopRuche.com

Luna Skirt from Shabby Apple

Office Envy skirt from Modcloth
However, none of these are even close to my $20 panic point. SO I decided to venture out into my new town and find our Goodwill. Best discovery: it's like a mile and a half away. I found a less than fabulously cut skirt that was quite a bit too large for me, but had a beautiful purple plaid for $3. I also found a great checkered pencil skirt to wear as-is.

Before and After--excuse the greasy hair in before, focus on the fab hair in after
The best thing ever happened this week...IT SNOWED! Snow is literally my favorite thing that exists on earth so when we had a two day snow day this week, I was SO happy. I took the opportunity to sew like mad on Tuesday and watch Harry Potter all day with the husband Wednesday. Being married is great for blogging, by the way. I have someone to take my pictures for me again! Thanks Drew!

This refashion wasn't very conducive to a tutorial, but I'll show you some of the steps. It was a long process and took me a day and a half to finish once I realized the original side zipper of the skirt had been damaged and was un-reusable, and my zipper foot for my sewing machine had disappeared. So after the South re-opened after Snowmaggedon yesterday I went over to Hancock, grabbed a few zippers to keep on hand plus the one I needed, and a new Coats Invisible Zipper Foot (I highly recommend this, by the way. It guides the zipper teeth through for you, saving time and frustration).

She got a donk...should've shown this from the back so you could see what a pear shape looks like!
The first thing I do with any garment is determine what fit I'm looking for. I placed this skirt on my adjustable dress form that is set to my measurements to start pinning and marking what I was going to do. After examining the skirt, I decided that the best way to takle it was by cutting every seam entirely off except the hem. I kept the original hem because I knew that cutting from the top instead of the bottom would give me the gather I needed to get a fuller skirt like those I was getting inspiration from.

Cut ALL the seams!
After I had done that, I took the two halves of the skirt and laid them side by side. I measured about 3 inches from the top to get my next cut, and then sewed those two strips together to make what became the new waistband.

Daisy stayed like this the ENTIRE day Tuesday while I sewed. Snoring on the daybed, occasionally looking up to check out what I was up to.

Two skirt halves ready to be chopped up!

Stitching those two strips from the tops of skirt halves together to make one long strip.

Fusible interfacing is your friend!
To add stability to my waistband since this fabric has a slight stretch to it, I added fusible interfacing and then ironed the waistband almost as though I was making bias tape. I was going to attach the skirt by sandwiching it between the two sides of the waistband and sewing along the bottom edge to create a barely-there seam.


Gathering is easy--sew two lines using a long or basting stitch and then tug on the ends until you get the right amount of gather.

There is the sandwich technique!
After this, I sewed up one side seam, leaving the other open for zipper installation. I had to go purchase a new zipper and an invisible zipper foot, but then was able to install it with relative ease. I forgot to take pictures of this step, but invisible zippers are wonderful because it truly can't be seen without searching for the zipper pull. It gives homemade clothing the same feel you get from storebought, when installed correctly. This tutorial from Sew Serendipity is the best and easiest to follow invisible zipper guide I've ever consulted.

The Coats & Clark invisible zipper foot is great because it can be made to fit any machine.

Midi-skirts are great for work--not too long to be casual, and not too short to be inappropriate.
After all of the deconstruction and essentially making an entirely new skirt, I got my copycat look for a grand total of $5.99 including the new zipper. I didn't factor the foot into the total price because it was a replacement for a staple part of my sewing life. That means I saved almost 90% by doing a DIY version instead of buying the skirt retail!

Part of the reason I chose the midi length skirt was for work. Being a young female in a male dominated workforce, with somewhat of a "good ol' boy" culture, I have to work harder to be taken seriously. I never mention my age unless I have to, and am very very selective with my work clothes. If the hem is above my knee at all, I don't wear it. I rarely wear pencil skirts because when you have the kind of butt Sir Mixalot writes songs about, pencil skirts will always ride up in the back and look more sexy than savvy, which is not the professional persona I want to give off. This skirt meets my need for style and fun, which I can get away with more being in the arts, while also being a serious enough wardrobe piece to become a work wear staple.

What have you done as a woman or young professional to help your image? Have you been up to any DIY lately?

Monday, October 1, 2012

From Granny Dress to Sweet Skirt

Let us start out by saying this project is SO EASY. Really. We spent maybe two hours total on this. That's one hour per skirt! Half the time it takes that long to shop for a good skirt, so why not design your own?

Here is what our dresses looked like before:

Super hot date night outfits, right?

And here is what they looked like when we were done!

Now that's better!

Seriously, guys. Easiest skirt ever. And here's the best part: YOU decide how it looks! You get to pick the fabric it will be made of, you get to pick where on your waist you want it to hit, and you get to pick how long or short you want it to be. We chose to do something slightly above the knee so that it would be long enough to wear to class and work but short enough to fit our ages.

Let's get started.

First of all, you want to pick a dress that's about three or four sizes too big for you. For example, Kaitlin usually wears a six, so her Goodwill shopping was done in the size twelve to fourteen section. It's also helpful if your dress is a little on the long side--that will allow you more wiggle room with choosing your hem length.

Got it? Great! Now head over to your local craft or fabric shop and pick up about a yard of 2 inch wide elastic. We decided to use black because the white kind usually gets dirty fast, and it's really summery, which doesn't really work with our fall and winter clothes. You'll also want to grab some thread that matches your fabric from your thrifted dress. One spool is more than enough.

Now that you have your supplies, it's time to start cutting! This is the scary part. Don't feel bad about cutting up your dress. It will probably be glad for the makeover in the long run!

Start cutting straight across the garment at the hips. Cutting here ensures you have enough fabric to create the gathers at the waist when you start sewing. If you cut at the waist of the dress, you won't be able to stretch your elastic while you sew, which means when the skirt is done you probably won't be able to get into it.

Go slow! Cutting accurately is important, so take your time!

Throw the top half of your dress into your scrap bucket. Don't have a scrap bucket? Start one! There are a million things you can do with your scrap stash. Tip Nut has some great stash busters listed here.

Now you're going to take your elastic and wrap it around your waist at the point where you want your skirt to hit. We put ours pretty high up--a higher waist means slimmer looking hips!

Don't stretch the elastic when you wrap it around. You want enough room left to stitch the ends together.

All wrapped up? Good. Now cut the elastic about half an inch beyond where the two ends meet. This leaves you a little room for the quick and dirty seam we're going to create in the next step.

Time to create that waistband! Take the two ends of your elastic, line them up, and using a small straight stitch, sew the ends together leaving about a quarter inch of elastic to the side of the seam. Back stitch a couple of times at each end of the seam to make sure it holds.

If you want to know how much a quarter inch is, just keep the end of the elastic lined up with the inner edge of your presser foot.

Perfect! Now cut the ends of your thread as close to the elastic as you can. You don't want to wear a skirt with little threads hanging out everywhere!

Now you want to fold each side of that seam over, making the seam look like an open book. Stitch each side down, back stitching at either end again. This will make the seam much more comfortable. Trust us, you won't even feel it.

Easy peasy waistband!

Next, we are going to assemble the skirt. Get excited!

Take the skirt you cut off your dress and pin it to your elastic. As you do this, make sure that the seam you just sewed is facing out, towards you, as is the fabric. This is called putting your fabric "right sides together" and is how most garments are assembled. Right sides together creates invisible seams.

It helps to stretch your elastic as wide as you can to get the whole thing pinned. Your skirt will be much wider than your waistband, but when you are sewing you'll be stretching the elastic to match it's width. Might as well go ahead and pin it that way too!

It may help to have a friend for this step. On Elizabeth's skirt, Kaitlin pinned while Elizabeth stretched and it went a lot faster.

This next step is the hardest one. Once you get going, though, it's not bad. Sew the elastic and skirt together at the top of the elastic, using a straight stitch and stretching the elastic out as you go. If you have elastic thread, you can use it on your bobbin and not have to stretch while you go. Our fabric store was out of elastic thread, but stretching ultimately has the same effect.


Stretch it real good!

You should have something that looks like this right about now:

Pretty cute, no? Don't worry, we're getting to the length next.

If you like it this long, you're finished! Kaitlin loves maxi skirts, but this one is just a little bit of an awkward length so she decided to go shorter.

Take a fabric pencil (a white colored pencil can work too as long as you are working on dark fabric) and draw a line where you want your hemline to be. Make sure that you're following the same curve as the hem of your original dress or else you'll end up with a weird, uneven hem.

 Don't worry about how thick the line is. It just needs to be enough for you to see.

Now take a pair of pinking shears (or regular scissors if you don't have shears--using shears just helps the fabric avoid fraying as it ages and gets washed/worn) and cut along the line you just drew.
Put that excess fabric in your stash box! It can be used later for more projects.

Guess what? We're almost done!

Take your hem and fold it over once, about a half inch wide fold. Iron this fold down so it stays put.

Trust us--ironing might be a pain but it saves SO much trouble later.

Fold that hem over one more time, and iron it down again. This process is making what is called a "rolled hem" which is great for keeping fabric from fraying. Even when a pattern doesn't suggest a rolled hem, Kaitlin uses it because it's so much sturdier.

 See why it's called a rolled hem? The fabric gets rolled right up!

Last step!

Head back to your sewing machine, align your needle to the left side of the presser foot, and stitch that hem as close to the rolled edge as possible. This will place your seam a little less than half an inch above the bottom of your skirt. Back stitch at the beginning and end of your seam to make it sturdy.
Be careful--it's easy to accidentally get out of line here, but if you do just use your seam ripper to undo those few stitches and start over.

Finally...


Go forth and model! Your skirt is done. What an easy, adorable way to recycle those dresses nobody really wants! Everyone can wear this style, no matter what your body type. Easy, comfy, cute--the trifecta of fashion perfection!

Wait until you see what's coming next! You're going to love it.